With them the seed of wisdom did I sow, And with mine own hand wrought to make it grow And this was all the harvest that I’d reaped, “I came like water and like wind I go” – The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam
Dreams unravel our consciousness but they are also discreet. Light, love, romance, darkness, wisdom and serendipity are a colourful combination of the experiences we undergo in our waking lives and those we wish to undergo in our sleeping lives. Such are dreams; a link between what we know, wish to know or might unknowingly know. When they are in a state of real transformation, they might be vague in their actuality but they also induce a romantic notion simply because of the courage required to undergo that transformation.
Field Marshall Kaiser Shamsher Jung Bahadur Rana’s, ‘Garden of Dreams’ is one such transformation and this is an unravelling of a vintage from a vantage. Nestled near the tourist hub of Thamel, the walled ‘Garden of Dreams’ in the adjacent Kaiser Mahal bears testimony to Field Marshall Rana’s enduring legacy. The sprawling oasis of his garden stands apart as a rare, calm delight in a bustling metropolis allowing us perhaps, to momentarily forget about the everyday grind in this mundane urban life and to dream.
Much of the architectural arrangement of this garden is styled in a quintessential Edwardian fashion which is in contrast with its rather informal and natural arrangement of plants and is more consistent with the garden designs prevalent in the 1st quarter of the 20th century. Although its overarching architecture is predominantly European, it also includes subtle, improvised aspects of many other cultures, i.e. the oriental moon gate, an amphitheatre, a Japanese styled seating area, a rotunda, a hybrid of Laxmi and Nike and a very Hindu portrait of Radha-Krishna on a stained glass window in the main building of the garden enclosure.
Strolling along the paved pathways, discovering the garden from various vintage, vantage points leads us to the ensemble of pavilions, which make up a significant proportion of the garden’s architecture. These neo-classical pavilions are unique as they represent the six cyclical seasons of Nepal, aptly named Grishma (Summer), Barkha (Monsoon), Sharad (Early Winter), Hemanta (Winter), Shishir (Early Spring) and Basanta (Spring) but now only three remain although their structural remains can still be seen. The central fountain pool is the focal point of this enclosure, reflecting the silent façade of the spring pavilion nearby. Many of the original designs and plantings still remain in place and it will look otherworldly when decked up with propane flames on the stone lotuses by eventide. This pool is merely one reflection that exemplifies its creator’s romantic nature, which is evident from all over the garden’s landscape.
For the garden’s financial upkeep and income, Basanta Cafe will be housed in the renovated Spring Pavilion. This restoration of the garden from a private realm to a recreational venue for the general public, also include some new and interesting features whose contemporary vintage is blended into its historic ambience. A number of water bodies and fountains have been added to the only original pond, and a new open-air theatre has been created for cultural performances and public or private events that now can be hosted for a fee.
Moving back to the new architectural aspects, there is a clever and innovative “hidden garden” between two high and almost parallel walls which converge over a series of stepped waterfalls into a seemingly endless perspective. This imaginative use of a hitherto empty but well-shaded space is pleasing to the senses not only for its cool air on hot days, but also because the sound of the cascading water masks the jarring street noise from outside. The most intriguing aspect in this garden is a fusion of the Hindu goddess of wealth, Laxmi and the Greek goddess of triumph and victory, Nike, in the form of a single statue and it leads us to a delightful anecdote. Laxmi’s disposition is symbolized by coins flowing from one hand and a lotus of purity in the other while the rest of the statue is conceived from the bust of Nike located at the Louvre in Paris. This is probably the most ingenious symbolism and synergy of east and west and also happens to further elaborate Kaiser Shamsher’s infamous win in a gambling game against his father, which gave him the financial motive to design the garden of his dreams.
Last but not the least is the Sufi inscription of Omar Khayyam in the inner wall of the Basanta Pavilion. The romanticism of this garden raises many intriguing questions about the conceiver. Its architectural fusion speaks about his well-read, well-traveled persona but also about his probable dream of gelling all world cultures into a single green space or a definitive symbolic paradigm. Perhaps, there was more to him than books, learning and travel.
Ah Love, could thou and I with fate conspire To grasp this sorry scheme of things entire. Would not we shatter it to bits- and then Re-mould it nearer to the heart’s desire! Ah, Moon of my delight, who know’st no wane The moon of heaven is rising once again How oft hereafter rising shall she look Through this same garden after me- in vain! – The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam
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